Basic woodshop tool needs

I am setting up a woodshop for the first time. I recently walled in my 20 x 20 carport, added electricity and lighting. I have a limited amount of time to add the large expenditure tools before my retirement income kicks in and financial restraints take over. So my question for the group is, what are the most important tools to have. i want to have a general use shop since at the moment i have no idea what will take my interest. I have already purchased the following.
Delta table saw
Jet 6in long bed joiner
Dewalt 635 planer
Rockler router table and pro lift
Jet 14" sfx band saw
Dewalt compound miter saw
Jet 16/32 drum sander
Jet 12/21 lathe with bed extender
Jet 650 cfm dust collecter with canister filter
Old Craftsman drill press
Ridgid oscillating sander
If anybody has a suggestion for something else or an upgrade I would love to hear it.

Thanks,
Bill

Oh, you have got an excellent start, . I have 2, a Ridgid14", with a riser block so that I can have clearance to resaw larger pieces. The other is a wen benchtop band saw for general use ,making jigs and smaller work. Rikon, and Laguna has a nice set-up too. An overhead air filter is good to have too, I was amazed at how well they work.
Don’t forget the sturdy workbench and vise too. you can make the workbench, a fun project.
You might think about an air compressor too. After having a unit that used to make me jump every time it cycled, I bought a Cal-Air quiet compressor. The best thing I ever did.

Lighting and Power outlets: I put 4X boxes every 4’ on both side walls, a 110v every other one and 220v in between. I found that gives me the capability to move any machines around where ever I want. My 220v are the table saw,Radial arm saw, large band saw, Dust collector., and had a 15" Delta planer at one time.

Lighting, I ran 4X boxes down the ceiling too and that way I can just plug in the 4’ LED lights fixtures. I have 35 fixtures 5 rows of 7 fixtures. There are no shadows in any direction. plus the extra outlets are used for dropping cords and tools in the center of the shop without stringing cords on the floor to trip over,
The electrical is all surfaced mounted and a sub panel off the main house panel with its own main breaker.
I hope you finished/insulated the walls/ceiling so you have a year around shop.
You are going to have a lot of fun in your shop, Good luck.
Herb

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Thanks for the reply. I pretty much mirrored your electrical setup. 4 4x outlets per wall, 2 each per 20 amp circut. I have not added 220 yet as everything I have is 110 to date. I do have a wireway to the box should I want to update. I brought in a seperate service because I did not want to affect the box in the house. The lighting is the new paddle type led, there are 4 of them. There is also a track light bar with led spots. Point well taken about the filter. I do have a compressor and bench top bandsaw. I gave away the radial arm saw due to space limitations, the shop is only 20 x 20. There is about 12 feet of bench top with vise and a very substantial anvil. All the big stuff is on wheels and very movable. The only big tool I am considering is a 6 x 48 belt sander. I have a little 4 in Rockwell and wonder if I might like a larger unit.
Just by the by I could not have afforded most of this if I had to pay full retail. All the Jet stuff is new but scratch and dent at about 60% of retail. I am sure that you all know about the outlet in Auburn but if not ask and I will forward a number. I don’t want to run adds.

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Sounds like you are set to go. If you ever get a chance,most table saws are capable of 220v and I highly recommend it you will never be sorry. It gets rid of any bog down and burns while you are cutting. You will always be glad you did. Smoother edges too.
I put all my power tools on wheels too, good move.
Herb

I think you’ve done a solid job of rounding out the power tools. Excellent foresight on the wiring and lighting too!

If you haven’t considered hand tools, that’s an area that might not be obvious but is important. Some Japanese pull saws. Good chisels (which are kind of hard to come by just now). Block plane, + 4-1/2 or 5 or 5-1/2 plane.

And of course, to support those, sharpening setup is key.

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Thank you for the reply. I have concentrated on the big stuff but mean to complete the rest. I do have sharpening equipment. I picked up the Wen sharpening system for 1/2 price at Lowes it was new in box but returned. I also have the Work Sharp belt type. These should do until I know better. Could you please recommend a quality brand of planes and chisels? That is not something I want to do by trial and error

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I have the Rockwell 4" too and use the dickens out of it. Not sure about the longer belt, but the larger disc might be useful, the bearings in mine are growling from so much use. Probably needs replacing in the near future. I bought it used and have put a lot of mile on it. The Ridgid belt/oscillating sander is handy too…
Herb

which tablesaw are you considering???..

take the DC to at least 1100 CFM… you won’t regret it…

take a look at JessEm tables… the cat’s meow +1st rate quality… their CS is next level…

I built my own 60" cabinet and used JessEm’s top and lift… big money saver…
bigger drawers = less material and work than multiple small drawers…
easier to set up the DC too…
all the ply you see is splined smaller panels…
see Dust Collection #2 - #4 by HerbStoops

the left of the table is open for adding rollers when working larger material. the miter knife and to accept Leigh’s D4 and FMT…
all working surfaces and table tops are on the same plane…

after a while this is one of the tools to go…
I use a Plan “B” w/ better results and far less waste…
and get a track saw as a bonus…

DIY TRACK SAW+JOINER.pdf (101.6 KB)

also…
I made a couple of these to take the place of the joiner…
these are used on the TS and you can do tapers w/ them also…

to add to Herb’s comment on shop electric…

Electricity in the Woodshop.pdf (208.5 KB)

storage and is a must…
floor space is never enough…

I did away w/ cabinets and went w/ shelving and sliding doors…
the doors then became wall space…

the doors track on ½x¾ angle iron an and adapted SGD repair wheels…

this satellite shop is only 14x16’…
so it’s saving the floor space continued…
all 4 walls are done this way…
3 banks of 12" and one of 20" deep…
when you total up the ply there’s less ply than in this set up than w/ cabs and you get to use and access every square inch easily…

even use the ends if you have them…

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Very impressive layout. I don’t have anyhing like your collection of tools yet but you have given me some thoughts for expansion. Thanks

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Veritas makes a gizmo called the Mk.II… Search - Lee Valley Tools
there is nothing else on the planet that even comes close to it in quality, versatility, and functionality…
you can jump in whole hog or start basic and option out as your need dictate…
all the stuff I have bought now resides on the shelf… OH the money I spent on all that stuff is many many times over the the cost of a complete Mk.II…
achieving several levels above next level phenomenally sharp is cake and pie…
there’s something that’s soul soothing about doing hand sharpening…

Plan “B”…

the nice thing about this sharpener is you can reprofile blades and irons w/o altering/damaging the steel of the tool…
Between these two sharpeners, there’s nothing in your shop that can’t be handled…

#1 on the all important agenda… is the sole absolutely fat w/ the sides 90° to the sole??? how does the plane feel in your hand??? does fit??? comfortable??? PAINLESS to use???
I have a fair amount of Stanleys… but my Veritas planes rule the roost… I’ve found that for the most part, imported Asian and made in India planes are money not well spent…
there’s nothing wrong w/ buying a used plane as long it meets the above listed criteria…
a good plane body can be some big bucks… I change/swap out the irons that have different profiles on them to give me multipurpose/function plane… one body w/ multiple irons and I have multiple planes…
we’re back to Veritas for them… nobody can even come close to touching their PM-V11 irons… NOBODY!!! Stanley/Record Cap Irons with Veritas Bench Plane Blade - Lee Valley Tools

Back Bevels and Plane Geometry.pdf (78.0 KB)
Bench Planes.pdf (62.7 KB)

here’s a little on who does what…

CUTTING ACTION OF PLANE IRONS 1.pdf (104.1 KB)

IRON BEVEL 1

WOW!!! where to begin…
to open…
made in England Stanley Fat Maxs - very good bang for the buck…
made in New Zealand Irwins - another very good bang for the buck…
nothing wrong w/ used, w/ the right sharpening equipment - yur golden…
steer clear of anything that looks like it was exposed (even a hint of) to a belt sander or grinder…
Asian… don’t bother… old Marples at one time were “thee” chisel… not any more, they’ve become far less than desirable