Adjustable bed table

Show and Tell
#1

I made a hospital adjustable bed for my wife when she had cancer. And her best friend saw it so wanted one for her husband who was bed ridden. The top is 34"X19", which includes the 1 1/2" oak bull nose edges. The top is 3/4" plywood with a Formica overlay. All the rest is solid white oak.
The steel tube that holds the wooden post is 21/2"X21/2" O.D. and has an aluminum channel for the hand screw to tighten against.
There are 2 oak runners lengthwise under the table with a couple of oak triangle braces for support. Everything is held together with screws and glue.
There are 4ea. 360° swivel castors on the base.
Height adjustment is 341/2"-45", floor to top of table.
Table 1
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Table 5

Table 6
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Table 7
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Table 12

4 Likes
#2

What a thoughtful build! How did you decide how thick to make the support and bracket for the table top?
Also, I’m curious how the square tubing is attached to the base. Looks like a bolt is involved.

#3

As you see, Tim, in one of the last pictures a heavy Galvanized lag bolt. That bolt is at least 8" long and 3/4" dia. It is in a tight hole and torqued down good and tight.There is a solid wood block about 7" long inside the tube that holds the lag bolt.
The rails under the top don’t have to be as long as they are , I made them that way so I could increase the length if the short angle gusset if needed to be longer. I wanted to keep as much clearance under the bottom as possible. The gusset on the back side of the post is in tension ,holding down the top as a counter balance. You can not sit on the end of the table, but it will hold a fair amount of weight.
Everything was determined in size from the size of the tube. It was 2/1/2"o.d., and 21/4" i.d., it had 1/8" thick walls so that set the post at 21/4" square.so the rails were 21/4" apart, and the gusset braces were 21/4" thick. I made the gussets the same length as the distance between the post and the back inside edge of the table.

#4

So the square tube would actually lift right off of that solid wood block if you picked it up? (That sounds fine, because who lifts their table 7"? I’m just trying to make sure I understand the design.)

#5

You got me,Tim, I needed a jog like that,it has been awhile since I made the table.The bolt secures a block inside the tube and the tube is fastened on 4 sides to the block that has the lag bolt in it to the base. The post on the table is independent to the tube and the block in the tube allowing it to slide.
You can see the FH screws in the side of the tube if you look closely.

#6

Got it. I missed the screws on the side. As you said, I can only see them if I look really closely.

#7

Thanks for bring up that point, I had forgot about it.
Herb

#8

a very good design and execution, Herb. I would very much like to see a fold-down mechanism to keep the table surface folded when not in use.
The stabilisation of the metal column with a bolt going into wood iserted intto the hollow metal was a trick I would never think of (I thought of metal angles with screw holes etc, this is much ewasier and equally effective).
Thank you, brilliant idea

#9

Thank you for your comment,Dimitri, I would have to ponder a fold down feature for awhile.
As it is the table stands against the wall in the room and can be used to hold light things. The bottom is just right to hold the soiled clothe basket, and a handy place to keep it out of the way but still accessible. I am not sure how much weight it can hold before sagging. It is sturdy enough for what it is made, but if I were to store any amount of weight on it I would make a removable leg to be safe.
Herb