You craftsman have tips tricks that work to further your projects…
Can ya take a moment or two tell or show us what they are…
I’ll start…
Gluing Oily Tropical Hardwoods II.pdf (49.6 KB)
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silicone… arrrrgggghhhh!!!
the caulk. the lubricants… the next time you have fish eyes in your finish - there’s a good chance silicone put it there…
to clean silicone of any surfaces - lacquer thinner will do it… BUT!!! the thinner may damage or destroy what’s under it…
so it’s best just to keep the stuff out of the shop… there’s nothing in the shop that needs it anyways…
now for the caulk.
fresh silicone caulk won’t stick/adhere to cured silicone… also, pure silicone caulk w/ dissolve untreated metal… so you used it to stop the gutters from leaking and after a while they started leaking again… you get aot the silicone and head down the rabbit hole…
SILICONE CAULK REMOVAL.pdf (33.3 KB)
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DC hoses/fittings…
After struggling for a while trying to get the wire reinforced vinyl hose ends on to ABS fittings and idea was struck…
Went and found several metal shoe horns and used them to facilitate getting the hoses on to the fittings along with some help from some dish soap…
A stolen tip…
Holding DC Replacement Bags.pdf (254.3 KB)
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more clamps for the arsenal…
binder clips…
have these in little itty bitty to gorilla sizes… great little numbers, strong, work well and last a long time… cheap…
clamp small glue ups…
hang up the plan…
book marks…
hold the pattern in place…
small tool holders/hangers…
chisel and iron bevel protectors…
once you start to use them their job description gets really long…
beats the snot out of clothes pins… never seem to break or wear out… they don’t become part of the glue up for they are metal or plastic… (the plastic ones have a very short life span in the shop)
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Recipe for Furniture Stripper:
Equal parts of acetone, methanol (wood alcohol), methylene chloride and toluene…
soak or paint it on… little goes a long way… wrap/cover the object in a cotton towel and soak the towel… use a white one…
don’'t ask why you shouldn’t use a towel that has been dyed or as print on it…
remove the towel and scrape the sludge of w. a plastic putty knife…
don’t bother asking what happens if you use a synthetic fabric towel or one that has been dyed…
Penetrating Oil:
brake fluid or acetone and ATF at a 1/1 ratio…
finish the clean up w/ turps…
Drilling Lubricant… (for metal)
Candle Wax… (premium for Stainless Steel)…
the bolt is too long ya say… here’s a method to help out w/ that…
we all use inserts at some point…
here’s some general information along w/ installation tips…
WOOD INSERT KNOWLEDGE BASE.pdf (31.9 KB)
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here’s a tip sheet on some of the hardware we install…
Hardware installation tips.pdf (476.9 KB)
here’s a fairly comprehensive tip sheet on sanding…
.
Sanding-RULES_TIPS_PARAPHRENALIA.pdf (470.0 KB)
to go along w/ your hardware installs…
Successful Screwing.pdf (585.6 KB)
need to drill a hoe(s) that require lubricant or coolant???
this is nothing more than a screw on bottle cap held in place w/ melted wax, hot melt DS tape or window putty…
fill the cap w/ what you need and have at it…
bigger holes get larger caps and the caps are reusable…
center finding: (“Thales Theorem”)
take your ruler and place zero inches on one edge…
move the ruler diagonally across the piece till you read a number at the other edge easily divisible by two…
divide…
that number is is the center… find it on the ruler and make your mark…
to find that IRL measure of center…
measure from the edge to the mark w/ the ruler perpendicular to the edge…
no measure…
say the stock is 3/4" thick/wide…
put a 3/4" fostner bit in the DP…
slide the fence up to the bit and lock it down…
presto… center of stock all done…
finding spacing…
Do your diagonal measure only instead of dividing by 2 divide by the number of pieces you want…
example…
you want 5 pieces from stock 12±’’ wide…
diagonal measure 15’’ and divide by 5… quotient is 3…
every 3’’ make your mark… (3, 6, 9, 12)…
center finding ruler…
lay the ruler on the piece and shift left or right till the measures are the same to both edges…
mark the zero…
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working out your picture frame miter to fit the picture made a tad easier…
Length of Picture Frame.pdf (50.6 KB)
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got pencil marks you don’t want on your project???
Easy Way to Remove Pencil Marks.pdf (50.9 KB)
to put those marks down cleanly and accurately…
Pentel mechanical pencils…
a host of diameters and leads…
washing machine tough…
got big hands???
add a grip…
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router bit storage…
½ ~ 1" wide by 1.5 ~ 2’’ thick strips vertically laid tightly in a drawer… butt joints are fine…
bed them w a notch troweled film of mastic on the bottom of the drawer… WeldBond is just the ticket…
there’s no holes to drill… just put the bits in between the strips… - any diameter shank w/ infinite spacing…
This system kills two birds with one stone.
First is a spacing issue. It always seems that the uniform holes are either too close or too far apart, which eats up the space…
Second, is using a “hard” holder (wood, MDF, etc). The holes always seem to be too loose or too tight.
drilling all those holes is labor and material intensive… not to mention expensive…
This way you have way better flexibility with infinite spacing…
my strips were the waste produced by an in town foam rubber supplier…
if you manage to get thin sheets of foam rubber, cut it into strips w/ am Olfa Rotary Cutter…
Note…
closed cell foam like the better pipe insulation jackets will serve you better…
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your TS fence deflects while in use???
Magnetic Base deadens fence deflection.pdf (167.5 KB)
some help w/ your crown moldings…
CROWN MOLDING.pdf (34.3 KB)
CROWN ANGLE COMPS.pdf (3.4 MB)
Crown_Slope_Angle.pdf (268.8 KB)
Crown_Spring_Angle.pdf (52.3 KB)
Me???
I cheat… I make a holder to hold the molding in the miter saw as it is installed…
base of the molding against the bottom of the fence and top edge up and away from the fence…
I also cope every chance I get…
Coping Moldings.pdf (324.6 KB)
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some handy tips to go w/ your router…
Some Router tips.pdf (1.1 MB)
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some tips and hints to make your finish carpentry outstanding…
10 Rules for Finish Carpentry.pdf (421.4 KB)
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